Sunday, November 6, 2016

Puppy Development - Weeks 5 to 7

Socialization Period (Weeks 5 to 7)

SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE!

The more things the puppies can be introduced to during this period the better socialized the puppy will be and the less fearful of day-to-day encounters. The Girl Gang has had many visitors, dog sitters/friends visit, car rides thus far --- and have heard neighborhood noises like garbage trucks, tree trimmers, dogs barking, met my other dogs (and several Vizsla relatives) and have had tons of new experiences in and around the house. 

Under socialized dogs are shy and fearful; I work hard to make sure my puppies are well socialized. (in addition to breeding for sound/stable temperament) This process goes on for months (and forever, really) after our adoptive families take their puppies home. It is the responsibility of the new owners to continue this process and not just keep their new puppy at home.

Each puppy must attend 6+ more weeks of group puppy classes (should begin by 10 weeks old) and I send home tons of handouts on how/where to socialize and numerous checklists.  Puppies must meet 100 people in the first 100 days they are in their new home (people of all sizes, shapes, ages, etc. wearing hats, glasses, wheelchairs, etc.).

It is VERY important that new puppy owners continue the socialization process to assure a well socialized dog when they mature.  This needs to start from DAY ONE -- socialization is critical before 20 weeks old and for Vizslas it is a lifelong process. 

Visitors!

The Girl Gang enjoyed a gaggle of visitors this weekend, some photos from their visit, here and more on the Puppy Photo Album link. 

Sutton the cinnamon bun

Skye and her puppy dog eyes

Sandie getting in some serious cuddle time

Skye learning to be a lapdog

Saturday - Jen and her family came from San Luis Obispo, and local friends from my work stopped by
Sunday - New puppy owners Jenn and Jon came up from the LA area to meet the girls and vice versa!

The girls also had some individual playtime in the house to boost their confidence levels and work on potty training. All in all a fun and exhausting weekend!


Why Dogs Misbehave

Why Dogs Misbehave

1. Lack of Understanding

Some communication is so unclear that it is a miracle that dogs are able to meet any of our requests!
Sometimes they simply have no clue what we want of them.
And generally we keep asking the same thing, only with a louder voice, and more forceful actions, not realizing that the explanation needs to be delivered in a different way.

2. Lack of Motivation

The dog is not motivated to do it. Lack of motivation can come from a variety of reasons.

My favourite that I like to pick on clients for is plain and simply “owners are boring”. Dogs have too many rules, and are never actually allowed to be dogs. The owners are incredibly dull, always trying to suppress their dogs from actually being dogs! Because of the constant rules, when the dogs finally get a taste of freedom, you will lose all control, as there is no way that you can compare with a running-rabbit or great dog-game. Please remember that the entire purpose of giving rules is to give freedom.

Other reasons are rewards are predictable and always present. If you ask your dog to come ten times, and each of the ten times he gets a piece of cheese, it won’t take him long to realize the food is always there, so skipping an occasion to chase a rabbit won’t kill him. But if the food is only sometimes there (variable reinforcement schedule) then he has a reason to find out if maybe this time he will get something. We want to turn our dogs into little gamblers. It is worth coming, just to find out if this time something might be given.

In addition to this, our rewards themselves are dull. Cheese? Every time? Nothing is good every time.

How about having boring kibble, some cheese, a few pieces of hot dog, and three meatballs in your pocket? If the first reward is kibble, the second is a meatball, the third nothing, fourth nothing, and the fifth a hot dog – wait and watch the speed of your motivated dog. Keep them guessing!

Now, while this sounds like way too much work, it isn’t. All it means is on treat cutting days, you have seven zip-lock bags, and you put some of each in each bag. Toss the bags into your freezer, and grab a bag for each training session.

For all of your diligent treat preparers, once in a while pull your zip-lock out of your freezer, have it on you, and don’t dispense one single treat.Teach them that while the food might always be there, it doesn’t mean that receiving will always happen.

Feeding treats should not be an expectation your dog has of you. It is a reward given, only when deserved. Second commands never get fed. Mediocrity does not get fed. Only brilliance does. And brilliance is defined as being ten times better than last training day!

3. Lack of Respect

Quite simply, the dog does not respect you. Would you take advice from someone that you think is an idiot? Well, neither will your dog. Respect is a beautiful thing, that will only be given when earned.

Your dog must care what you think before he actually chooses to follow your instructions. So many of the dogs that I see are coddled spoilt brats, and the saddest part is they are unhappy.
Your dog deserves to be happy. He deserves to have rules and boundaries so that he can be successful with his responsibilities.

Don’t become a pez dispenser for treats in an attempt to fake respect. A pez dispenser is exactly that – and you will have no relationship with your dog at the end of pez-dispensing. When your treats run out, so does your dog’s interest in you. This really is not the dog’s fault, but your own.

4. Relationship Problem

Some dog's have past baggage. And some dogs with a past have handler's who still carry their past, even though they've long since let it go. Or sometimes our puppy Labrador Retriever is constantly measured against our thirteen year old Labrador that just died.

To have a healthy relationship with a dog means you must be worthy. And for your dog, you need him to be the best that he can be, by building his strengths, lessening his weaknesses, and being his fearless coach, showing him how life should be lived.

Happy Training Everyone.

Monique Anstee
Victoria, BC

Top 10 Best Pet Insurance Companies

Pet insurance is a good idea for an athletic breed like the Vizsla, a broken leg will cost you a couple hundred and an obstruction surgery will cost you thousands (like $7,500). Here's a link to the Top 10 Best Pet Insurance companies http://tinyurl.com/per6369

Friday, November 4, 2016

Puppy Cam is OFFLINE on the Weekends

REMINDER:  Puppy Cam is OFFLINE on the Weekends

See you on Monday! 👍🏻

Just say "NO" to rawhide . . .



THE MOST DANGEROUS PET CHEW EVER: RAWHIDE!

How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets, you ask? I mean, most dogs chew on rawhide for hours on end, and not only does it keep them busy, but they seem to last forever.

Well if you understood what it took to make this toxic “raw” leather stick, you would quickly understand what the problem is.

Aside from the horror stories circulating all over social media these days, of pets needing emergency surgery after consuming rawhide, the majority of pet parents today, especially the newbies, believe that this chew is some sort of dried up meat stick. Let me debunk that myth right away!

A rawhide stick is not the by-product of the beef industry nor is it made of dehydrated meat. Rather, rawhide is the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Sounds awesome, right?

“Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top grain is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner portion, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” TheBark.com

So, how does this leather, which is conveniently rolled up into pretty shapes, actually get made into those rawhide chews?

Follow along my friends and I will enlighten you on how this hide travels through a leathery process where it transforms from hide to a not-so beautiful, colorful, chew stick. Here is a paraphrased tutorial that was explained by the whole dog journal several years back:

STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport to help prevent spoilage.

(No one wants to purchase a black, spoiled rawhide stick!)

Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat that maybe attached to the hides themselves.

(No, no one wants to see a hairy hide…)

Next on this glorious journey, these hides are then treated with chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers.

The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, purses, etc. But, it’s the inner layer that is needed to make the rawhide. (Oh and other things like gelatin, cosmetics, and glue as well!)

STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or bleach; this will also help remove the smell of the rotten or putrid leather. Bonus!
(Research also shows that other chemicals maybe used here to help the whitening process if the bleach isn’t strong enough.)

STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of this “leathery by-product” look delicious! So, here is where the artistic painting process comes in.

“Basted, smoked, and decoratively tinted products might be any color (or odor) underneath the coating of (often artificial) dyes and flavors. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide to make them appear white and pretty on the pet store shelves.” - whole-dog-journal.com

“…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– thebark.com

Ok, now that these hides have been painted, it’s time for the final process.

STEP 4: Getting it to last forever!

Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be food, really it’s a free for all when it comes to the manufacturers of these leather strips, and the products they may want to add to these chews, to get them to last forever. Any sort of glue can be added here to get these bad boys to never come apart.

When tested: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hides. So it’s safe to say that any sort of glues can be used as well!

Finally, it’s time to package and attach all the glorious marketing labels to the product.

Check out the fine print warning that’s attached with some of these rawhides:
“Choking or blockages. If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, the rawhide can get stuck in the esophagus or other parts of the digestive tract. Sometimes, abdominal surgery is needed to remove them from the stomach or intestines. If it isn’t resolved, a blockage can lead to death.“

(Oh, how lovely…)

And there it is! It’s now ready to be shipped to store shelves where it can be purchased for our loving animal companions.

How do proactive veterinarians feel about these chews?

Here is world-renowned veterinarian Doctor Karen Becker's take on the matter:

“The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be processed-hide, because the skin isn’t raw at all. But the term “rawhide” has stuck.

Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it -- it becomes almost addictive.

At this point, there’s no longer any dental benefit to the chew because it has turned soft and gooey, and, in fact, it has become a choking and intestinal obstruction hazard.“

P.S. Ready for the jaw dropper?

An investigation by Humane Society International stated in their report, “In a particularly grisly twist, the skins of brutally slaughtered dogs in Thailand are mixed with other bits of skin to produce rawhide chew toys for pet dogs. Manufacturers told investigators that these chew toys are regularly exported to and sold in U.S. stores.” – dogingtonpost.com

Rodney Habib - Pet Nutrition Blogger

"An educated, informed and well-researched community of pet owners can only put more pressure on the pet food industry to be better! When pet owners know better, they will only do better!"

Source:  http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/rawhide-dangerous-for-dogs/

Playtime with Granny Nanny!

Granny Nanny is the best puppy sitter, she loves her grand babies!