Thoughts on Puppy Raising

The hardest part of raising a puppy is not to stifle them. Yet we must be there to protect them every step of the way. Finding that balance, between freedom and protection, is a difficult one to find. We want to tend to their every need, and cuddle away every whimper, and when we do, we stunt their emotional growth. We keep the fearful ones fearful, and the bold ones simply find us irritating.

Our puppies must learn to problem solve, and work out their own difficulties. Our job is to find the balance of when to help them, when to give them a kiss and a nurturing shove forward to work it out on their own, to know when to laugh at them for the dumb error that they just committed, when to force them to succeed and then reward them as though it was their own brilliant idea, and when to simply protect them and keep them safe.

When raising a puppy, I use what they offer to build their confidence. My past two weeks have been spent with two wonderful baby boys. Both are needing help dealing with big adult dogs at the park. Both pretend to act over confident and 'cool' when they really would rather climb inside my jacket and be carried! Growing up is scary, and my understanding and help, and hand-holding, has given them the courage to act like stellar lads.

My first little man had a fabulous temperament, and fabulous raising thus far, so he only needed teasing reminders such as "Grab your Ball" when passing a dog. By keeping his mind on the soother in his mouth, his manners were spectacular, and he had the confidence to move on past temptation.

My second little puppy could not have been more different. He had no social skills, and only confidence through his teeth, so pretended he was the biggest and toughest dog in the world. He needed to be carried past dogs and see them from the safety of arms. Then he needed to be on the ground, with hands guiding him, reminding him that is was me and him against the world. Now we are at the stage of going past the dog, and throwing a cookie in the direction that I want him to go (straight past). I am giving him a reason to leave the encounter. I'm not forcing him. It is his choice to leave (so he keeps all his power). I've just presented a darned good reason why he should leave. This little man has given me his heart and soul. He tries hard to please - but he has no idea how to behave. It is my job to show him how. Because of all that he has missed, he is never going to be the role model at the dog park. But he can learn manners, and how to be a well adjusted, confident adult, by being schooled on what is wanted, and by watching my well behaved adult dogs demo for him.

We are repeatedly told that dog training is science. I disagree. I think it is more like art. Each dog is a blank canvas, and it is up to us to create our perfect dog. We are given a topic, and then the creation is left in our own hands.

There certainly is a scientific component to it; If you do this - you will get that. But first you must envision your canvas so that you know what you want to create, and then you use your science to help you get it.

This is the reason that if you present one problem to ten dog-trainers, you will get ten answers. All might be right, but each trainer will create a very different canvas, depending upon what they saw.

Monique Anstee
Victoria, BC
www.naughtydogge.com

And then there were FOUR!

And then there were FOUR! Baby Scout is now “Wink" (Moonlight's TBD) joining Din & Ross and older brother, “Woodford” @woodford_on_the_rocks on Instagram (from our 2013 Shout Out Litter) in San Diego. Always a huge compliment having a family ask for another Vizsla from you, but considering I adore these guys the choice was easy!  Can’t wait for the next Moonlight Meet-up! 

Bye Bye Wink! We will miss you! 😘 

Go Home Day is approaching!

Time to put together the Moonlight Vizslas "Go Home Bag" for the Girl Gang/Seeing Double Litter! Time flies when you're having fun! 😁 Each bag includes good stuff to get each pup started off right in their new home...chewies, soft blankie, handouts on puppy raising/training/socializing, treats, stuffed toys, toothbrush/paste kit, Kong and MV tote bag!

Our BEAUTIFUL mommy, Zene

Busy Week for the Girl Gang

Hey what's in there?

Bitey time! 

Posing for a group photo :) 

Enjoying the patio-obstacle course

Ramps and ladders and toys, oh my!

Am I doing it right?

ATTN: Dog Owners --- Stop Being a Circus Animal

ATTN: Dog Owners -- Stop being a circus animal. Be a leader, a teacher, a "parent" to your dog instead of making excuses for the "tricks" they teach you to do. Stop saying, "my dog doesn't like" or "my dog can't." As a breeder (and dog owner) this is my #1 PET PEEVE. Dogs are Great People Trainers:

Dogs are such good teachers, and can train people to do the most bizarre things. And in turn, people make up the most bizarre reasons for what their dogs have trained them to do.

I've heard of dogs that can't travel in the car, or lie flat, or have their feet wiped, or wear a certain piece of equipment (or costume), or who doesn't like their people hugging .... the list goes on.

Usually our reasons all exist because our dog's have trained us well. They have taught us that they will not cooperate if ______ is present. But really, this has nothing to do with that particular moment. It has to do with our dogs not being willing to take our suggestions. In other words, they are disrespectful. Or probably more to the point, your dog won't take your suggestion because you are not worthy of being respected. This all starts with you.

You must be willing to change in order to get a dog that cares what you think. If you don't follow through, all of your wishes and dreams about having a happy, cooperative dog are for nought. They will not be happy and cooperative if you are not willing to change, and become worthy of being respected.
Here is a funny video, that will prove my point!

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=799153936809005

Monique Anstee
The Naughty Dogge
http://www.naughtydogge.com

Puppy Fitness that Fits the Puppy - Puppy Culture Link

A tired dog is a good dog, right? Well that is not necessarily true for puppies.  

Injuries to the growth plate may not heal properly or not heal in time for the puppy to grow up straight and strong. Injury to a growth plate can result in a misshapen or shortened limb which, in turn, can create an incorrect angle to a joint which can make the puppy more prone to yet more injuries when he grows up. 

Please refer to the Puppy Culture's Exercise Guideline for Puppies 

(Link: https://www.puppyculture.com/exercise-chart.html) 

Future Owners - Please read "Puppy Fitness that Fits the Puppy - Age Appropriate Guidelines" by Jane Killion http://www.puppyculture.com/appropriate-exercise.html

Dr. Jean Dodds Vaccination Protocol

I sent an email to the Future Puppy Owners today but wanted to share this important info here as well.

2016 DODDS VACCINATION PROTOCOL FOR DOGS

The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice.

9 - 10 weeks of age

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV

e.g. Merck Nobivac (Intervet Progard) Puppy DPV

14 – 15 weeks of age

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV

18 weeks of age

Parvovirus only, MLV

Note: New research states that last puppy parvovirus vaccine should be at 18 weeks old.

20 weeks or older, if allowable by law

Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines

Mercury-free (thimerosol-free, TF)

1 year old

Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV

This is an optional booster or titer. If the client intends not to booster after this optional booster or intends to retest titers in another three years, this optional booster at puberty is wise.

1 year old

Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines

3-year product if allowable by law; mercury-free (TF)

Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. Visit The Rabies Challenge Fund for more information. 

W. Jean Dodds, DVM

Hemopet / NutriScan

11561 Salinaz Avenue

Garden Grove, CA 92843

Source: http://drjeandoddspethealthresource.tumblr.com/post/147595920886/dodds-vaccination-protocol-dogs-2016#.WCtW_KIrKu4

More visitors!

The Girls enjoyed a visit from friends and god-doggie-parents Carol & Mike. Safe to say we wore them out 😉

Almost 6 Weeks old - time flies when you are having fun!

Top Left: Syke, Middle Left: Saywer, Bottom Left: Scout, Top Right: Sutton, Bottom Right: Sandie

Make Your Life Easier -- start training from DAY ONE

Every puppy comes to their new home with an inherent desire to follow. They are always underfoot and look to you for guidance and entertainment. Then something happens...they turn 16 weeks and realize that they can be independent.

If you do it right, teaching your new puppy to come back when called is the easiest skill to solidify. Your puppy is already showing you the desired behaviour. All you need to do is reward it, praise it, solidify it. By rewarding their desire to follow, you are creating a solid foundation on which to build your recall. If you wait until they are 16 weeks old, you will have to work exponentially harder to make recalls fun and rewarding.

Make life easier for you and your new pup - start training from day one and always reward the behaviors you like.

Erinn Lee Dog Training

http://www.erinnlee.com

Where is the "Puppy Cam" you ask?!

Sorry friends, family and followers of the Seeing Double Litter blog, the Puppy Cam has not been running while I've had various dog sitters and days working from home.  Next week is also busy with work meetings so the Puppy Cam may be sporadic (if at all).

Please check Moonlight Vizslas on Instagram or the Puppy Photo Album for the latest Girl Gang puppy fix. Thanks for your understanding. 

Practicing our "sits"

The Girl Gang loves their "kitchen time" and it's an easy place to practice "sits". 

Baby Sutton practicing "sit"

Attempting a "group sit" - 5  1/2 week old pups

L to R: Sutton, Sawyer, Sandie, Scout & Skye

Puppy Housetraining -- the biggest challenge, or is it?

Successful house-training is one of the first things parents of a new puppy need to accomplish, and even though the process can be time-consuming, it does not have to be daunting. With a combination of consistency, common sense, and positive reinforcement protocols, you can quickly train any puppy to toilet appropriately.

Crate Training

Crate training is the ONLY way of encouraging puppies to hold themselves for longer periods of time and keeps puppies safe when unsupervised. If you use the crate correctly, it will become a safe space for your puppy as well as a highly effective toilet training tool.  

Stay Alert!

Regardless of which method you use to housetrain your puppy, remain especially vigilant and prepared for a pup to eliminate at the following times:

•     Immediately after meals or water
•     After training sessions
•     Immediately after waking up
•     After vigorous play
•     When overly excited

You must have TWO EYES on the puppy AT ALL TIMES -- or they need to be in their crate. 

What Not to Do:

• Never scold a pup or adult dog for toileting inappropriately and never rub his nose in or near his mess. Dogs do NOT toilet inappropriately out of spite. You will only cause your dog to fear you and toilet in secret or when you are out of sight.
• Leaving poorly house-trained puppies or dogs in the home unsupervised sets them up to fail unless they are in a safe area.

Teach a "Go Potty" Command

• You should be taking your puppy outside to eliminate so that you can offer appropriate praise. Incorporate at "Go Potty" command so the puppy quickly learns to do their business.  I find this command invaluable for travel when a quick pit stop is needed.

Fruits & Vegetables Dogs Can and Can’t Eat

http://www.akc.org/content/health/articles/fruits-vegetables-dogs-can-and-cant-eat/

Teaching "recall"

Teaching your dog to come to you when you call h/she (also known as the recall) is the most important lesson you can teach a dog. A dog who responds quickly and consistently when you call her can enjoy freedoms that other dogs cannot. H/she can play in the dog park, hike with you in off-leash parks and keep out of trouble in most situations. Consider a situation when you don't intend to have your dog off her leash --- collars break, leashes slip, gates or doors are inadvertently left open. When an accident happens, having a reliable recall could very well save your dog’s life.

Teaching your dog to "Come When Called" by Dr. Sophia Yin

https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/teaching_rover_to_race_to_you_on_cue/

Expressing preferences, a continuation of "Puppy Buyer Etiquette"

Americans love to "choose".... just go to Starbucks and you're bombarded by an number of choices: tall/grande/venti, soy, java chip frappuccino, extra-hot, half-caf, etc. The word “choice” is equated with freedom, in particular having the freedom to live the life you want, and the more choices you have, the more freedom. 

But, please don't expect to "pick/choose" your puppy when dealing with a responsible breeder. Strange concept to first-time/future puppy owners -- and (I get it) it can be hard to grasp.  

What does that mean? It means that the breeder is in the best position to assess which puppy will do best in which environment – and often there are 6-8 families to accommodate. Doing what is best for all is the breeder's responsibility; similarly, you should want this kind of experience, expertise, and mentorship from your breeder.

I share this link with everyone/anyone who writes a puppy inquiry, "Puppy Buyer Etiquette" https://rufflyspeaking.wordpress.com/2009/04/26/puppy-buyer-ettiquette/  If you haven't read it, please take a peek.

My favorite excerpt from the above link:  

My responsibility is not to make you happy. And that, dear friends, is why I am posting this now, and not when I have a bunch of actual puppy buyers around. But it’s the truth. My responsibility is to the BREED first. That’s why my first priority in placing puppies is the show owners, because they are the ones that will (if all goes well) use this dog to keep the breed going. It’s not that I like them better than I like you; it’s that I have to be extremely careful who I place with them so that they can make breeding decisions with the very best genetic material I can hand them. My second responsibility is to the PUPPY. I will place each puppy where I feel that it has the best chance of success and the optimal environment to thrive.

Johanna's follow up article....

Puppy Buyer Etiquette (slightly) continued: Expressing preferences

One of the comments on the earlier brought up a very good point: How about when you reeeeeeeeaaaaaalllly want a particular puppy in a litter?

I think this falls into two basic categories: When you NEED a particular puppy and when you have fallen in love with a particular puppy.

If I am looking to buy a puppy to show and breed, I am usually looking for something I don’t have eight of at home. So when I call up a breeder, or talk to them at a show, or e-mail them, I’ll say “I am keeping an eye out for a really wonderful black dog; are you planning a litter with Xerxes right now?” They immediately know that I’m not interested unless they have a black male show-potential puppy whose father is Xerxes. So they’ll send me away if they don’t get any males in the litter, or if they know Xerxes isn’t going to be used, or whatever. The flip side of being this specific, of course, is that I have to wait around until the puppies are all evaluated, and have the breeder or co-breeder pick their puppy or puppies, and then hope there’s a black show male left for me. 

Being this exacting works really well if you know and trust that breeder, so you know she’s not going to try to sell you a puppy that’s not actually competitive, and/or if the breeder already has a couple of Xerxes litters around. It’s even better if you can see the puppies in person; that’s why every Nationals is like a giant puppy-swapping party. You see a stunning brindle puppy in a golf cart, run over, say “Who is that gorgeous creature?” and hopefully things go from there; either you wrangle an introduction to the breeder or (just maybe) that particular puppy or her sister are for sale. 

When you’re getting your first show puppy, and I’m still in the throes of this (I have not been in the breed long enough to have ANYBODY offering to hold puppies for me, except maybe Kate – blows kisses to Bronte’s puppies – ) it’s probably wise to express fewer preferences to the very best breeder you can possibly rather than more preferences to a breeder who isn’t as good. One of my e-mails to a particular breeder basically went “I would be thrilled beyond belief to even be considered for this litter; I’m barely exaggerating when I say I’d like to take home your dog’s POOP.” I couldn’t have cared less about color, gender, amount of white, anything, because I was so excited about the potential of the litter and loved the two dogs involved so much. 

If you’re not going to be showing or breeding, I think it’s entirely appropriate to express a preference of gender, especially if you have a dog at home and he or she tends to get along better with one than the other. Just let us know if you can be flexible on that or if you MUST have a certain gender. 

It’s also more than fine to let us know that you like a certain “fault.” If you think fluffs are da bomb (and, wow, I do); if you think pinks are to die for; if you like the half-white heads or no white at all (which is not a fault but can be more difficult to show), please do express that. With those particular criteria, all of us love to have owners who not only will accept them but desperately want them, so if we don’t have one in a litter we’ll try to point you in the right direction to get, say, a fluffy white-headed merle puppy (and, ohmygoodness, how gorgeous would THAT be). 

From there, you’re looking at color and at markings. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with expressing a preference to the breeder. Just realize that it’s not fair to the puppies for us to put markings (which are entirely superficial and have nothing to do with who the puppy IS) above personality and behavior and needs. For example, let’s say that you live in an urban environment and go for long walks every day; you have three kids and a Pointer. The litter you’re looking at has two brindle puppies with big wide blazes and one tri puppy with a little white squiggle. He’s kind of ugly, honestly. You may feel extremely disappointed, even angry, when you see those wide-blazed puppies go to other families and you get offered the ugly puppy. But if you’ve done your homework and chosen your breeder correctly, she’s giving you that puppy because he’s completely unflappable, adores kids, and has shown a remarkable ability to make friends with big dogs. Wide-blazed brindle #1 was very high-energy and went to a herding home. Wide-blazed brindle #2 showed more sensitivity to noise and would probably not enjoy the chaos of your house; she’s going to live with a retired couple who listen to NPR all day.

If you find that you absolutely cannot accept anything but one color or “look” of dog, please just let the breeder know immediately, and don’t get mad if you don’t get it. Ask your breeder to let you know as soon as possible if she thinks that the one puppy that meets your request won’t be available to you, and ask for a referral to another breeder in that case. Again, please don’t go get yourself on a bunch of waiting lists in the hopes that one breeder will give you a copper brindle with a wide blaze and one solid-colored leg, unless you tell ALL the breeders involved exactly what you’re doing and that you’re on everyone else’s list. 

The theme here, as it was below, is to COMMUNICATE. Be honest, talk a LOT, keep up the calls and the e-mails, offer full disclosure. If you’ve been honest and fair with us and we can’t offer you your dream puppy, we’ll be more than happy to send you to the next breeder with a glowing recommendation. If we’ve been honest and fair with you, you shouldn’t feel concerned or ripped off. Just keep talking, talking, talking. Miscommunications and resentments build when one party thinks the other is keeping secrets or withholding crucial information – in other words, when one party is treating this like a commodity transaction (I’m sure she’s trying to rip me off, so I’m going to protect myself and get what I want) rather than a relationship (I’m sure she wants the best possible outcome, so I’m going to be as honest as I can). The most important thing to remember is that in order to thrive, the puppy is going to need both of you (good grief, I sound like a divorce lawyer, but it is almost like that), so do your best to reject any behavior that will cause the other person to leave the relationship.

Source:  https://rufflyspeaking.wordpress.com/2009/04/27/puppy-buyer-etiquette-slightly-continued-expressing-preferences/

Puppy Development - Weeks 5 to 7

Socialization Period (Weeks 5 to 7)

SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE, SOCIALIZE!

The more things the puppies can be introduced to during this period the better socialized the puppy will be and the less fearful of day-to-day encounters. The Girl Gang has had many visitors, dog sitters/friends visit, car rides thus far --- and have heard neighborhood noises like garbage trucks, tree trimmers, dogs barking, met my other dogs (and several Vizsla relatives) and have had tons of new experiences in and around the house. 

Under socialized dogs are shy and fearful; I work hard to make sure my puppies are well socialized. (in addition to breeding for sound/stable temperament) This process goes on for months (and forever, really) after our adoptive families take their puppies home. It is the responsibility of the new owners to continue this process and not just keep their new puppy at home.

Each puppy must attend 6+ more weeks of group puppy classes (should begin by 10 weeks old) and I send home tons of handouts on how/where to socialize and numerous checklists.  Puppies must meet 100 people in the first 100 days they are in their new home (people of all sizes, shapes, ages, etc. wearing hats, glasses, wheelchairs, etc.).

It is VERY important that new puppy owners continue the socialization process to assure a well socialized dog when they mature.  This needs to start from DAY ONE -- socialization is critical before 20 weeks old and for Vizslas it is a lifelong process. 

Visitors!

The Girl Gang enjoyed a gaggle of visitors this weekend, some photos from their visit, here and more on the Puppy Photo Album link. 

Sutton the cinnamon bun

Skye and her puppy dog eyes

Sandie getting in some serious cuddle time

Skye learning to be a lapdog

Saturday - Jen and her family came from San Luis Obispo, and local friends from my work stopped by

Sunday - New puppy owners Jenn and Jon came up from the LA area to meet the girls and vice versa!

The girls also had some individual playtime in the house to boost their confidence levels and work on potty training. All in all a fun and exhausting weekend!

Why Dogs Misbehave

Why Dogs Misbehave

1. Lack of Understanding

Some communication is so unclear that it is a miracle that dogs are able to meet any of our requests!
Sometimes they simply have no clue what we want of them.
And generally we keep asking the same thing, only with a louder voice, and more forceful actions, not realizing that the explanation needs to be delivered in a different way.

2. Lack of Motivation

The dog is not motivated to do it. Lack of motivation can come from a variety of reasons.

My favourite that I like to pick on clients for is plain and simply “owners are boring”. Dogs have too many rules, and are never actually allowed to be dogs. The owners are incredibly dull, always trying to suppress their dogs from actually being dogs! Because of the constant rules, when the dogs finally get a taste of freedom, you will lose all control, as there is no way that you can compare with a running-rabbit or great dog-game. Please remember that the entire purpose of giving rules is to give freedom.

Other reasons are rewards are predictable and always present. If you ask your dog to come ten times, and each of the ten times he gets a piece of cheese, it won’t take him long to realize the food is always there, so skipping an occasion to chase a rabbit won’t kill him. But if the food is only sometimes there (variable reinforcement schedule) then he has a reason to find out if maybe this time he will get something. We want to turn our dogs into little gamblers. It is worth coming, just to find out if this time something might be given.

In addition to this, our rewards themselves are dull. Cheese? Every time? Nothing is good every time.

How about having boring kibble, some cheese, a few pieces of hot dog, and three meatballs in your pocket? If the first reward is kibble, the second is a meatball, the third nothing, fourth nothing, and the fifth a hot dog – wait and watch the speed of your motivated dog. Keep them guessing!

Now, while this sounds like way too much work, it isn’t. All it means is on treat cutting days, you have seven zip-lock bags, and you put some of each in each bag. Toss the bags into your freezer, and grab a bag for each training session.

For all of your diligent treat preparers, once in a while pull your zip-lock out of your freezer, have it on you, and don’t dispense one single treat.Teach them that while the food might always be there, it doesn’t mean that receiving will always happen.

Feeding treats should not be an expectation your dog has of you. It is a reward given, only when deserved. Second commands never get fed. Mediocrity does not get fed. Only brilliance does. And brilliance is defined as being ten times better than last training day!

3. Lack of Respect

Quite simply, the dog does not respect you. Would you take advice from someone that you think is an idiot? Well, neither will your dog. Respect is a beautiful thing, that will only be given when earned.

Your dog must care what you think before he actually chooses to follow your instructions. So many of the dogs that I see are coddled spoilt brats, and the saddest part is they are unhappy.
Your dog deserves to be happy. He deserves to have rules and boundaries so that he can be successful with his responsibilities.

Don’t become a pez dispenser for treats in an attempt to fake respect. A pez dispenser is exactly that – and you will have no relationship with your dog at the end of pez-dispensing. When your treats run out, so does your dog’s interest in you. This really is not the dog’s fault, but your own.

4. Relationship Problem

Some dog's have past baggage. And some dogs with a past have handler's who still carry their past, even though they've long since let it go. Or sometimes our puppy Labrador Retriever is constantly measured against our thirteen year old Labrador that just died.

To have a healthy relationship with a dog means you must be worthy. And for your dog, you need him to be the best that he can be, by building his strengths, lessening his weaknesses, and being his fearless coach, showing him how life should be lived.

Happy Training Everyone.

Monique Anstee
Victoria, BC

Top 10 Best Pet Insurance Companies

Pet insurance is a good idea for an athletic breed like the Vizsla, a broken leg will cost you a couple hundred and an obstruction surgery will cost you thousands (like $7,500). Here's a link to the Top 10 Best Pet Insurance companies http://tinyurl.com/per6369

Puppy Cam is OFFLINE on the Weekends

REMINDER:  Puppy Cam is OFFLINE on the Weekends

See you on Monday! 👍🏻

Just say "NO" to rawhide . . .

THE MOST DANGEROUS PET CHEW EVER: RAWHIDE!

How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets, you ask? I mean, most dogs chew on rawhide for hours on end, and not only does it keep them busy, but they seem to last forever.

Well if you understood what it took to make this toxic “raw” leather stick, you would quickly understand what the problem is.

Aside from the horror stories circulating all over social media these days, of pets needing emergency surgery after consuming rawhide, the majority of pet parents today, especially the newbies, believe that this chew is some sort of dried up meat stick. Let me debunk that myth right away!

A rawhide stick is not the by-product of the beef industry nor is it made of dehydrated meat. Rather, rawhide is the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Sounds awesome, right?

“Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top grain is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner portion, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” TheBark.com

So, how does this leather, which is conveniently rolled up into pretty shapes, actually get made into those rawhide chews?

Follow along my friends and I will enlighten you on how this hide travels through a leathery process where it transforms from hide to a not-so beautiful, colorful, chew stick. Here is a paraphrased tutorial that was explained by the whole dog journal several years back:

STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport to help prevent spoilage.

(No one wants to purchase a black, spoiled rawhide stick!)

Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat that maybe attached to the hides themselves.

(No, no one wants to see a hairy hide…)

Next on this glorious journey, these hides are then treated with chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers.

The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, purses, etc. But, it’s the inner layer that is needed to make the rawhide. (Oh and other things like gelatin, cosmetics, and glue as well!)

STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or bleach; this will also help remove the smell of the rotten or putrid leather. Bonus!
(Research also shows that other chemicals maybe used here to help the whitening process if the bleach isn’t strong enough.)

STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of this “leathery by-product” look delicious! So, here is where the artistic painting process comes in.

“Basted, smoked, and decoratively tinted products might be any color (or odor) underneath the coating of (often artificial) dyes and flavors. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide to make them appear white and pretty on the pet store shelves.” - whole-dog-journal.com

“…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– thebark.com

Ok, now that these hides have been painted, it’s time for the final process.

STEP 4: Getting it to last forever!

Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be food, really it’s a free for all when it comes to the manufacturers of these leather strips, and the products they may want to add to these chews, to get them to last forever. Any sort of glue can be added here to get these bad boys to never come apart.

When tested: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hides. So it’s safe to say that any sort of glues can be used as well!

Finally, it’s time to package and attach all the glorious marketing labels to the product.

Check out the fine print warning that’s attached with some of these rawhides:
“Choking or blockages. If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, the rawhide can get stuck in the esophagus or other parts of the digestive tract. Sometimes, abdominal surgery is needed to remove them from the stomach or intestines. If it isn’t resolved, a blockage can lead to death.“

(Oh, how lovely…)

And there it is! It’s now ready to be shipped to store shelves where it can be purchased for our loving animal companions.

How do proactive veterinarians feel about these chews?

Here is world-renowned veterinarian Doctor Karen Becker's take on the matter:

“The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be processed-hide, because the skin isn’t raw at all. But the term “rawhide” has stuck.

Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it -- it becomes almost addictive.

At this point, there’s no longer any dental benefit to the chew because it has turned soft and gooey, and, in fact, it has become a choking and intestinal obstruction hazard.“

P.S. Ready for the jaw dropper?

An investigation by Humane Society International stated in their report, “In a particularly grisly twist, the skins of brutally slaughtered dogs in Thailand are mixed with other bits of skin to produce rawhide chew toys for pet dogs. Manufacturers told investigators that these chew toys are regularly exported to and sold in U.S. stores.” – dogingtonpost.com

Rodney Habib - Pet Nutrition Blogger

"An educated, informed and well-researched community of pet owners can only put more pressure on the pet food industry to be better! When pet owners know better, they will only do better!"

Source:  http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/rawhide-dangerous-for-dogs/

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